- Take A Look At The Phottix Mitros+ TTL Transceiver Flash
- Annie Leibovitz’s New Fashion Shoot BTS Video
- Workshop – Flash, Night & Day HK (Photoshoot Module) – 14 September 2013
- Video – The Fastest Way To Change DSLR Lens
- The Art of Portrait Photography Video
- Phottix Released New Firmware for Phottix Odin for Canon
- WPPI 2013 Film – World Premiere
- Video Interview with Fashion Photographer Anton Oparin – Everything You Need to Know About Fashion Photography
- 黑點 MASTER CLASS II 系列: 王禾壁 The Photocrafters MASTER CLASS Series: Wong Wo Bik
- Video Tutorial – Lightroom’s Adjustment Brush Quick Tip
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Category Archives: Lightroom
Adobe released this performance hint for Lightroom 4 this week. Among all tips, here are some of the more useful ones that one often overlook.
High Resolution Displays
Drawing to the screen can be slow when Lightroom is using the entire screen of a High Resolution Display. A high resolution display has a native resolution near 2560 x 1600 and is found on 30 inch monitors and Retina MacBooks. To increase performance on such displays, reduce the size of the Lightroom window, or use the 1:2 or 1:3 views in the Navigator panel.
Spot Removal Tool, Local Corrections, and History Panel
The Spot Removal Tool and Local Corrections Brush are not designed for hundreds to thousands of corrections. If you have an image containing many (i.e. hundreds) of localized adjustments, consider using a pixel-based editing application such as Photoshop for that level of correction.
If you have many corrections, check your History panel. The History panel has no limits and it does not get deleted unless specified. If you’ve been creating many local or spot corrections, your history might be long, which can slow Lightroom’s performance as a whole.
Clear the History panel by clicking on the X on the right of the History panel header.
Order of Develop operations
The best order of Develop operations to increase performance is as follows:
- Spot healing.
- Geometry corrections, such as Lens Correction profiles and Manual corrections, including keystone corrections using the Vertical slider.
- Global non-detail corrections, such as Exposure, White Balance, etc. These corrections can also be done first if desired.
- Local corrections, such as Gradient Filter and Adjustment Brush strokes.
- Detail corrections, such as Noise Reduction and Sharpening.
Note: performing spot healing first improves the accuracy of the spot healing, and ensures the boundaries of the healed areas match the the spot location.
Increase the Camera Raw cache
Increasing the Camera Raw cache in Lightroom’s preferences can help performance in the Develop module if you repeatedly work on the same set of images.
To reset the Camera Raw cache:
- In Lightroom, select Edit > Preferences > File Handling (Windows) or Lightroom > Preferences > File Handling (Mac OS).
- Increase the Camera Raw cache. If you’re not sure how much to incrase it it, start with 2-3 GB initially, depending on the amount of space on your hard disk and how you use Lightroom.
- You can also change the location of the cache if you wish.
For full list, check out the Adobe page, link here.
Just added the Sony A99 to our arsenal and our crew is just having a ball with it. Today, we finally got it tethered to the Mac. via Sony’s Remote Camera Control and Lightroom. Well, although Lightroom does not support tether capture natively with the Sony A99, there is a work around. Here’s how it works.
1. First install two files in the MAC folder on your Sony A99 CD-Rom, RCC_INST.pkg and IDC_INST.pkg.
2. Now you should have Remote Camera Control App in your Applications Folder, fire it up.
3. You should see the app window like the following, click on the save in box as shown to set up a new folder to save the capture pictures.
4. Once you set up a new folder, fire up Lightroom.
5. Once in Lightroom, make sure you are in the Library module. From the File menu, select Enable Auto Import under Auto Import, then go to Auto Import Settings afterwards.
6. Under Watched Folder, choose the same folder you set up in Step 3 above.
7. Click the check box “Enable Auto Import” and Voila, you’re done. Hook up your Sony A99 and take a few snaps and your pictures should show up in Library Mode under the “Auto Imported Photos” folder.
Hope the above works for you. Leave a message if you have any questions.
Two great videos from Michael Hoffman over at tipsquirrel.com on how to migrate your Lightroom catalog and adding a top level folder for to keep all folders organized. The two videos are also added to our Video Tutorials – Post Processing Skills and Workflows page under our Blog section where you’ll find other useful video tutorials as well.
Source - tipsquirrel.com
According to Michael Frye, the first video above explains some of the differences between the old and new processes, how the new tools work, and the ways they affect an image’s appearance. Here are some of the main points:
- The automatic highlight recovery and black point setting in the new process (2:00)
- Why you should avoid updating older images to the new process—unless you want to start over (5:04)
- The new tools: some of the names are familiar, but they all behave differently (7:30)
- Starting points: the numbers are different, but the defaults are really the same (8:53)
- An in-depth look at each of the new Basic Tone controls and how they work (12:38)
HI the second video, Michael talks about how to use these new tools to process both low- and high-contrast images and I quote:
“Here are some of the main points:
- Where to begin? If you’ve read my eBook Light and Land, or watched one of my previous videos about curves, you know that in the old process I preferred starting with all the Basic tone controls set at zero, and the point curve linear. Does this still apply in the new process? (1:10)
- Curves or sliders? The new Basic Tone sliders are much better than the old ones; are they good enough to replace the Point Curve? (10:30)
- Does the order matter? Adobe suggests using the Basic tools in order from top to bottom, starting with Exposure, then Contrast, and working down to Highlights, Shadows, Whites, and Blacks—essentially working from the midtones out to the black point and white point. But this contradicts a long-standing tradition in digital imaging of setting the black point and white point first. Should you stand with tradition, or embrace the new order? (13:02)
- Processing a high-contrast image. (21:04)”
You can catch rest of the reading at the following blog post via Outdoor Photographer:
Your photography workflow – mobile
Whether photography is your living, your passion, or both, managing the multitude of photos you shoot can be quite a chore. Adobe Lightroom makes light work of it, but you don’t always have your catalog with you, and even a slim notebook is unwieldy when you’re hiding from the rain under an awning in Bogotá. As a photographer, you spend a lot of time on the road. You spend a lot of time waiting and preparing. Being able to organize your photos while you’re in the field or traveling would save precious time. Likewise, sorting through the backlog of disorganized photos would be a lot more comfortable from the couch than your desk. The iPad is the perfect tool for the job. A large, bright screen on a light, touch-sensitive device. And Photosmith makes the most of it. Photosmith’s fundamental purpose is to enable you to move your photos seamlessly and safely between your camera, your iPad, and your Lightroom catalog. Photosmith 2 lets you send your existing photos from Lightroom to your iPad so you can sort, rate, tag, label and group your photos from the comfort of your couch, a bus stop or a beach-side hammock. All metadata is beamed over as well, including GPS location, copyright info, keywords, and even your camera’s exposure settings at the time you took the picture. And when you’re back home, just tap the sync button and your Lightroom catalog is updated – wirelessly.
After you’ve finished a shoot (or even in the middle of it if there’s a break) you can import your photos to your iPad by plugging in Apple’s Camera Connection Kit. In addition to photos you imported from a camera’s memory card, Photosmith naturally supports both the Camera Roll and Photo Stream. For more information see the Photosmith 2 intro guide.
Source – Photosmith 2